XXX Bonafide or St. Louis Cemetery No.1
Palms and oleanders grow in the shell-rich soil between
crumbling tombs--
the mausoleum style is nearly ubiquitous here,
or its
precursor, the so-called oven-grave:
as one body decomposes, it is
pressed to the back wall and another cadaver is fed through the opening.
A dry styx, this.
Chrysanthemums bloom in vases, eternal non-native
mourners,
and wreaths of white silk flowers, rust-colored and mottled
from dust and rain.
A few tourists mill and couples dressed like
specters link arms, a violinist wanders looking lost.
He brings bow to
strings, but thinks better of it and relents.
The soft crunch of our
feet through the stones reigns,
and strains of zydeco coming from
downtown.
They’ve showered the graves in untidy gestures: flasks, fans,
beaded necklaces tossed in handfuls-- Doggerel scrawled on tomb walls
and everybody speaking for the dead.
Voodoo churches are filled with
quotidian offerings and more arcane talismans:
halloween candy in
dishes shouldered up against shrunken heads under bell-jars.
Drawers
full of teeth.
Paper dolls with ink across the eyes.
The priestess
Miriam sits in her shady courtyard like a queen in blue sandals
with a
wave of her hand, as though to dispel a dream or maybe just the heat.
She and other ghosts of New Orleans, the shadow of the Tioga,
its wide
back window with the world spilling out,
the breeze in my hair,
the
hundred-year-old magnolias twisting up through the soil and
the carnivalesque park signs,
the chain link fence and the dogs chained
to it,
the caw of the jackdaw and the crow.
Our lost violinist finds the
dark-eyed couple and marries them, invoking apocryphal magic.
To
each their omen, blanched and painfully real under the white sun,
our
lungs thick with the smell of chicory coffees and over-sugared beignets,
the French-quarter is ripe and rotting.
with dried vomit on the
pavement, with wafts of cigar smoke, with our sagging, thrusting flesh--
all of it bathed in the close and musky air rising cool off the
Mississippi.
These graves are marked with the triple Xes of vigilant
believers,
hope for us dirt-scratchers, temples to burlesque saints.
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